Taking good care of plants is not just about watering them "occasionally" or following a fixed Monday-Thursday routine. The amount of water they need varies depending on the species, the type of substrate, the climate and, especially, the season.and also what water to use for wateringWatering the same way every time, whether it's cold or hot, is the fastest way to see sad leaves, rotten roots, or dry pots.
If you've ever wondered "am I watering my plants correctly?" or "how much water do they really need in summer, winter, or indoors?", you're in the right place. We're going to see, step by step, how to adapt irrigation to each time of year, how to detect lack and excess of water, and what tricks and systems They exist to make it much easier.both at home and in the garden or orchard.
Why is it so important to water plants properly?
Water is the basic resource for a plant to live, grow and bloom, but that doesn't mean that more is better. Both insufficient and excessive watering are equally harmful to plantsOne causes dehydration and water stress, the other suffocates the roots and triggers diseases.
When we overdo it with the watering can, The roots become trapped in a waterlogged substrate, without oxygen, and stop absorbing nutrients.. Understanding the Importance of pH in water and substrate This helps us understand why those roots can't take advantage of what's in the soil. The result is root rot, fungal growth in the soil, and a general decline in the plant that we often mistake for "thirst." If, on the other hand, we consistently fall short, the plant enters survival mode. It stops growing, blooms less, and may eventually dry out completely..
It's no exaggeration to say that irrigation is the Achilles' heel of many hobbyists. In fact, It is estimated that around 80% of plants that are damaged at home do so due to improper watering.Therefore, understanding how, when, and how much to water according to the season is practically half the battle to have healthy plants.
How to tell if a plant needs water (or if you're overdoing it)
Before talking about seasons, it's important to be clear about the signs that tell you whether it's time to water or not. The plant and the substrate give you very clear clues if you learn to observe them calmly..
One of the simplest ways is to look at the overall appearance of the plant. If the leaves turn yellow, dull, and lose their shine, it may be suffering from a lack of water.Especially if you also notice the stem starting to bend or the plant looking wilted. However, be careful, because drooping leaves can also be a sign of overwatering.
The substrate is another great telltale sign. Insert a finger 2-3 cm into the soil: if that layer is completely dry, it's time to water.If it still feels fresh or damp, it's best to wait. With potted plants, with a little practice, you'll also be able to notice the difference in weight between a well-hydrated pot and a dry one.
When there is excess water, the signals change. It is common to see strange spots on the leaves near the base, for the soil to smell strange, or to see a thin layer of mold on the surface of the substrate.All of this indicates that too much moisture is accumulating and that the roots may be suffocating.
These visual and tactile clues are very useful, but they have a limit: It is not always easy to assess the actual level of humidity in the deeper part of the potThis is precisely where most active roots are concentrated. Here, some tools come into play that can save you a lot of trouble.
Measuring substrate moisture: from home remedies to meters
For years we have managed with very basic techniques: sticking our finger in the soil, using a wooden stick to see if it comes out wet, or simply relying on the surface appearance of the substrate. These methods work "by eye," but they are not very precise and fail especially in deep pots or very compact substrates..
For those who don't want to complicate their lives or become experts in agronomy, There are moisture meters specifically designed for domestic use that visually indicate when it's time to water.They don't have complicated screens or require interpreting technical scales: simply look at the color or position of an indicator.
A very convenient example are the SUS·TEE type meters. They are inserted into the pot up to a marked point and, from there, they show one color when there is enough water available and another when the substrate has dried out and the plant needs watering.The good thing is that they work with all types of plants, pot sizes and substrates, and they don't damage the roots.
His philosophy is simple: saving the hobbyist the need to know exactly how much humidity is optimal for each speciesIt is a system devised and tested in Japan, where irrigation is taken very seriously: many farmers there say it can take them up to three years to learn how to irrigate accurately.
This type of device is usually available in several sizes to suit the diameter of the pot. The smallest ones are suitable for compact pots from 6 to 9 cm, the medium ones for standard sizes from 10,5 to 18 cm, and the large ones for wide pots up to about 36 cm.Simply choose the correct size, hammer it in, and let the meter do its silent work.
Factors that influence how much water a plant needs
Once you know how to identify if there is a lack or excess of water, the next step is to understand what makes a plant need more or less water. Not all species or soils react the same way, and the season completely changes the picture..
The type of plant is key. Succulents and cacti are equipped to store water in their leaves and stems, so they prefer infrequent watering.If you treat them like a tropical plant, they'll eventually rot. At the other extreme are ferns, calatheas, and many other tropical species, which need a consistently moist (but not waterlogged) substrate and high ambient humidity. If you're looking for options that can withstand long periods without watering, you can consult lists of plants that don't need water to inspire you.
The type of soil or substrate also makes a difference. Sandy soils drain very quickly and require more frequent watering, while clay soils retain water for much longer.In pots, a very compact substrate full of clay can accumulate water and cause puddles; that's why materials such as sand or perlite are often mixed in to improve drainage.
The location of the plant is another factor that is often underestimated. Potted plants dry out faster than those growing directly in the ground because they have less available soil.Furthermore, a potted plant in a sunny window will need much more watering than the same plant placed in a bright corner but without direct sunlight.
Interior and exterior are not the same thing either. Outside the home, wind, direct sunlight, and extreme temperatures increase evaporation.Indoors, on the other hand, the soil dries more slowly, but heating or air conditioning can also significantly alter the ambient humidity; therefore, it is advisable to know what the inside plants that best withstand heating.
How irrigation changes according to the season
The season is probably the factor that most influences how often you should water. Light, temperature, and humidity vary so much from winter to summer that watering the same way all year round is a recipe for problems..
In spring, the plants awaken and begin to grow strong. In summer, the heat and long days cause evaporation to be at its maximum and the plant to consume more water.In autumn, activity slows down, and in winter most species enter a state of relative dormancy: they no longer need as much water, and the substrate dries out much more slowly.
Therefore, rather than focusing on a magic number of waterings per week, The smart thing to do is to adapt the amount and frequency to the time of year, always observing how the substrate and the plant respond.Let's look at it in more detail, station by station.
Spring watering: the awakening of growth
As winter begins to fade, the light increases and temperatures gradually rise. The plants emerge from their winter dormancy and resume their growth, generating new shoots and fresh leaves.All of this implies a slightly higher demand for water.
At this time of year it is advisable to gradually increase watering. The usual practice is to switch from very infrequent watering in winter to watering approximately a couple of times a week, provided that the substrate has largely dried out between waterings.There's no need to soak the pot all at once: it's better to do it gradually to avoid overwatering.
Since it's not yet hot in spring, It's a good idea to avoid using excessively cold water, especially if it comes from the tap in cold areas.Letting it rest for half an hour at room temperature helps prevent the temperature change from stressing the roots and, if necessary, to remove chlorine from irrigation waterIf you have the opportunity to collect clean rainwater, it's a luxury for the most delicate plants.
This is also a good time to check the condition of the substrate and the roots. If the pot has become too small or the soil is very depleted, it is advisable to repot and take the opportunity to use a good quality substrate, well aerated and with an adequate balance between retention and drainage.Healthier soil also facilitates more balanced irrigation.
Watering in summer: when the heat is intense
Summer is undoubtedly the most demanding season in terms of water. Temperatures are soaring, the days are longer, and the sun can dry out the soil in a matter of hours, especially on balconies or terraces that are very exposed.This is where most mistakes are made, either by excess or by omission.
The typical question is: "How often should we water in summer?" There is no universal frequency because it depends on the type of plant, the size of the pot, the substrate, and the local climate.A terrace in Seville is not the same as one in A Coruña. As a general rule, many plants will appreciate watering a couple of times a week or even more, but always check the moisture of the soil first.
The finger trick or using a humidity meter can be very helpful. If, when you press your finger in a little, the substrate still feels damp, wait; if it feels almost dry, it's time to water thoroughly.Remember that “watering more often but with little water” is not a good idea: only the surface layer gets moistened and the roots remain thirsty.
The time of day also makes a big difference. Ideally, water first thing in the morning, between 5:00 and 7:00, or at dawn, when the substrate is cool and the plant can calmly absorb the water before the temperature rises.Another reasonable option is sunset, when the sun is no longer strong, but avoiding excessively wetting the leaves to prevent fungal growth.
What should be avoided at all costs is watering during the middle of the day, when the sun is at its strongest. At that moment, much of the water evaporates almost immediately, and the actual benefit to the plant is minimal.In addition, if the leaves get wet and receive direct sunlight, they could burn more easily.
Regarding the irrigation technique, It is preferable to give deep but spaced-out waterings: thoroughly soak the substrate until some water comes out of the drainage holes, and then let the soil dry almost completely before repeating.This forces the roots to grow deeper and makes them more resistant to drought.
If you use saucers under the flowerpots, there is an important detail: A few minutes after watering, empty the excess water that has accumulated in the saucer to prevent the roots from becoming submerged and rotting.The plants are not aquatic: too much water at the base is just as dangerous as too little.
In plants that are very sensitive to humidity in leaves and flowers, such as some geraniums or orchids, it is advisable to be even more precise. Constantly wetting the leaves in summer can trigger the appearance of fungal diseases, such as botrytis, which can kill the plant in a very short time.It's best to direct the water directly to the substrate and focus on increasing ambient humidity with trays of water and stones or humidifiers, instead of spraying on the delicate leaves.
Autumn watering: slowing down
As autumn arrives, the days get shorter and the temperatures begin to get milder. The rate at which the soil dries slows down, and plants reduce their growth rate.Here we need to ease off the accelerator with irrigation.
At this time of year, the frequency of feeding needs to be gradually reduced for most species. If you were watering very often in the middle of summer, space out the waterings and let the top layer of the substrate dry out before watering again.It's a gradual change: you don't need to go from frequent watering to almost none all at once.
If you overwater when it gets cooler, very characteristic problems will appear. The leaves may yellow not due to a lack of water, but precisely due to excess humidity combined with low temperaturesThe risk of fungal growth also increases if the substrate is constantly waterlogged.
Take advantage of autumn to do a small "vegetable MOT". Check the drainage of the pots, clean clogged holes, and adjust watering to the actual light each plant is receiving.Many people go to darker places at this time of year, and that also affects what they drink.
Winter watering: less is more
Winter is when the most plants are lost due to well-intentioned but misguided efforts. Most species drastically reduce their metabolic activity in the cold and need much less waterHowever, out of habit, we continue to water almost the same as in other seasons.
The key in winter is to be cautious. Many indoor plants only need water every 15-20 days, and some outdoor plants can even go several weeks without watering if there are occasional rains.Don't obsess over watering "because it's time"; it's better to be guided by observation.
Repeat the gesture of inserting a finger into the ground: If you notice it's damp, even slightly, waitOnly when you find it clearly dry does it make sense to water again. At this time of year, the danger isn't that they'll dry out overnight, but that they'll slowly rot without us noticing.
Another important detail is to avoid wetting the leaves, especially if the plant is in a cold or poorly ventilated place. The combination of water on the foliage and low temperatures is the perfect breeding ground for fungi and rot.Always try to direct the water towards the substrate.
The location is also crucial. Do not place plants near radiators, stoves, or drafts of icy air.Sudden temperature changes stress the roots and make watering more difficult to control: a pot next to a radiator can dry out much faster than one located in a warmer area.
When and how often to water: frequency and key times
Although there is no exact formula, there are some patterns that work very well in most gardens and terraces. Watering less frequently but deeply is usually more effective than watering every day with very little water..
For established gardens, many experts recommend water them twice a week instead of dailyThe goal is for the water to penetrate several centimeters downwards, so that the roots seek out that moisture at depth and become more tolerant to drought.
Regarding the times, the ideal time slot is before 10 a.m. or after 6 p.m.This occurs when temperatures are lower and the wind is usually calmer. This significantly reduces evaporation and allows water more time to infiltrate the soil.
If you have problems with runoff or puddles because your soil is very clayey and hard, it's a good idea to use the "cycle and soak" method. It consists of dividing the irrigation of a single day into two or more short sessions separated by a time intervalFor example, if you usually water for 40 minutes a week with sprinklers, you can do two 10-minute sessions in the morning on two different days; between sessions, the water infiltrates better and less is lost through runoff.
The key is to adjust the duration of each session to the time it takes for the ground to start forming puddles. As soon as you see water starting to accumulate on the surface, it's a sign that you're applying more than the ground can absorb at that moment.and it's best to divide it into several rounds.
Extra tips to ensure successful watering in any season
Beyond the general rules and support systems, there are a number of principles that work all year round. The first is to always use water at room temperature, avoiding extremes of very cold or very hot.which can damage the roots.
Secondly, it is preferable to opt for deep watering that reaches the entire pot rather than just wetting the surface every so often. Proper watering should cause some water to come out of the drainage holes; this indicates that the substrate has been thoroughly soaked from top to bottom.Then, let the soil dry out before watering again.
It is also advisable to adapt the watering to the type of pot. Clay or terracotta pots breathe more and dry the substrate faster than plastic onesSo you'll probably have to water them a bit more often. Pots without drainage holes, on the other hand, are a real headache; without drainage, the risk of waterlogging is extremely high.
Finally, a trick that never fails: if you have any doubts, it's better to under-water than over-water. Many plants tolerate a few days of drought better than they can withstand having their roots continuously submerged in waterYou can always correct slight water stress with a good deep watering, but recovering rotten roots is much more difficult.
Watering wisely, adjusting the frequency according to the season, observing leaves and substrate, and using tools such as moisture meters, drip systems, and self-watering planters. It will allow you to enjoy stronger, greener, and more rewarding plants all year round, with less effort and without fear of making a mistake every time you fill the watering can..
