Complete guide on how to perform an English or tongue graft on plants and trees

  • English grafting is an essential technique for the propagation and improvement of plants and trees, widely used in both fruit and ornamental trees.
  • It allows obtaining specimens that are more resistant to diseases, improves nutrition and accelerates growth.
  • There are several types of English grafting, each adapted to the grafter's different needs, thicknesses, and objectives.

English grafting on plants

The English graft, also known as tongue graft, is one of the most widely used plant propagation techniques in the world of gardening and fruit growing. This method consists of joining a portion of plant tissue, called a scion or graft, to another established plant, called a rootstock, so that both grow integrated as a single organism. The main objective of this type of grafting is to take advantage of the best characteristics of two different plants: the resistance and vigor of the rootstock, along with the desirable properties of the variety to be grafted, such as fruits, flowers, or adaptability to certain conditions.

El english graft It is widely used both in commercial nurseries and by amateur gardeners who wish to propagate their own fruit or ornamental trees. In addition to facilitating genetic improvement and variety multiplication, this method offers rapid results and a high success rate if performed correctly. In this article, you'll learn in depth how English grafting is performed, its variations, advantages, the ideal time to perform it, and a complete step-by-step guide adapted to current best practices.

What is English grafting?

types of plant grafts

The English graft is a type of scion graft Both the rootstock and the scion tend to have a similar diameter, usually between 0,5 and 2 centimeters, and are preferably performed on young specimens or thin branches. Its popularity lies in the strength of the union and the good circulation of sap between both parts, which promotes rapid healing and vigorous growth.

This technique is ideal for plants pome fruit trees (such as apple, pear, and quince trees) and is also used in ornamental and some stone fruit trees. The English graft, especially in the tongue form, stands out for its Compatibility, safety and high engagement rate.

The main reasons for resorting to English grafting include:

  • Obtain more resistant specimens to specific soil diseases, given the resistance of the selected rootstock.
  • Reproduce clones identical from a plant with desired characteristics (e.g. high quality fruits).
  • Accelerate the vegetative cycle and obtain harvests in less time than by sowing seeds.
  • Change the size of the tree (dwarfism, growth control or adaptation to small spaces).
  • Rejuvenate or renew aging trees or damaged while preserving the quality of the variety.

types of grafts in gardening

Advantages and applications of English grafting in plants

English grafting has several advantages over other methods. Among the most notable are:

  • High probability of success due to the great contact between the cambiums (generating tissues) of the pattern and the spike, which is essential for the union and joint development.
  • Simple and precise cuts, which can even be done manually with basic tools and a steady hand.
  • Fast healing and homogeneous growth, achieving an almost imperceptible union after a few months.
  • Adaptability to many species and varieties, and especially useful in small diameter fruit trees and shrubs.
  • Versatility to graft different varieties onto a single rootstock, even of compatible but different species.

English grafting is widely used in professional gardening, as well as by horticulturists and amateurs who want to experiment with new varieties, produce multi-varietal trees, or save damaged plants. It is, without a doubt, an essential technique for garden and orchard lovers.

Types of English grafting: main variants

English graft variants

There are three main variants of the English graft, each with specific characteristics and uses:

  1. Simple English graft
    • It consists of making a bevel cut of equal length on the pattern and prong, then joining the two pieces together. This is the fastest method, but less secure in terms of fixation during the first few days.
    • If the diameters do not match exactly, it is crucial that at least one of the barks (and therefore the cambiums) remain in full contact on one side.
    • The final scar is usually almost invisible if it heals properly. It requires extreme initial care, as the union is more fragile.
  2. English tongue graft (or normal)
    • Also called tongue graft or double-cut, is the most commonly used due to its strength. After the bevel cut, an additional incision (the tab) is made on both sides, allowing the pieces to fit together like two puzzle pieces.
    • The interlocking of the tabs prevents the pick from shifting and provides a large contact surface between cambiums, which speeds up union.
    • Once the graft is securely tied, it's very difficult for the pieces to separate. This is the recommended technique for most fruit and ornamental trees.
  3. English grafting on horseback
    • It consists of making an "A" on the pattern and an inverted "V" on the prong, allowing for a firm fit without completely splitting the core wood. It's a safer variant than the simple one, but slightly more complex to execute.
    • It is used when the pattern and pick have similar, but not identical, thicknesses, or when greater reliability is sought in the initial joint.

grafts on fruit trees

How to do an English graft step by step

The procedure for properly grafting English scions is meticulous and requires careful attention at every step. Below, you'll find a detailed guide based on expert experience and the best gardening resources:

  1. Selecting the pattern and pick
    • Choose branches of similar thickness, preferably 0,5 to 2 cm in diameter.
    • The rootstock must be healthy, vigorous, and disease-free. The scion should be from a branch grown from the previous year and have two to four well-formed buds.
    • The scion can be harvested during the winter and kept in a cool, humid environment (in the refrigerator or buried in moist sand), or cut just before grafting.
  2. Making the cuts
    • Make a bevel cut about 3-5 cm long on both the rootstock and the pick, ensuring that both are the same size and angle.
    • In the case of tongue graft, makes a second vertical incision (the tab) halfway down the bevel, approximately one-third the length of the first cut. This is done on both the rootstock and the prong.
  3. Union of the pieces
    • Carefully fit the tabs or bevels together, ensuring maximum contact between the cambiums. If the diameter of the pick is smaller than the rootstock, set it aside to ensure the seed tissue matches.
  4. Tied and protected
    • Use special grafting tape, raffia, plastic wrap, or elastic grafting bands to securely tie the area and prevent shifting.
    • Whenever possible, cover the graft area with mastic, grafting wax, or paraffin, thus sealing any air entry and preventing dehydration.
  5. Post-graft care
    • Keep the area protected from direct sun and rain for the first few weeks.
    • Don't remove the tie until the scion buds have sprouted and are between 5 and 10 cm long. Removing them too early could expose the still-weak tissue; removing them too late could strangle further growth.

multiply trees by English grafting

Materials and tools needed

The quality of the tools will influence the precision of the cuts and, therefore, the success rate of the graft. It is essential to have:

  • Grafting knife sharp and clean, designed to make precise and clean cuts.
  • Pruning shears to prepare branches and remove unwanted parts.
  • Special graft bands, ribbons or raffia to firmly tie the pieces together.
  • Mastic, grafting wax or paraffin to seal wounds and prevent entry of pathogens or desiccation.
  • Gloves and disinfectant gel to maintain hygiene and reduce the risk of infection.

Nowadays, there are also grafting machines that allow for uniform and rapid cutting, especially useful when performing numerous grafts.

When is the best time to perform an English graft?

right time to graft

The English graft must be executed in periods of vegetative restBeing late winter and early spring optimal periods. The pattern should be at the exact moment when the sap begins to move, but before full active budding, which favors vascular connection and subsequent healing.

The scion, which is ideally cut in winter and stored in a cool, humid place, should be grafted just before the arrival of warmer weather. Grafting too early can expose it to frost, and grafting too late can cause uneven growth and make union difficult.

In temperate climates, it is recommended to take advantage of mild days and protect grafts from strong winds or heavy rain. Monitoring these factors is essential to ensure graft success.

success of grafting on trees

Essential recommendations and mistakes to avoid

  • Always keep tools clean and disinfected to prevent the transmission of diseases.
  • Works in conditions of adequate relative humidity; never graft in direct sunlight or on dry, windy days.
  • Select healthy picks and avoid any parts with signs of damage, fungus or pests.
  • Take special care of the union of the cambiums; precision in cutting is key to success.
  • Tie firmly but not excessively., so as not to strangle the future growth of the plant.

When grafting several grafts onto the same rootstock, separate the areas of union to avoid direct competition and promote the balanced development of each scion.

Other grafting techniques and compatibilities

other grafting techniques

The English graft works especially well in Trees of feeble leaves and in most classic fruit trees. For species with thick bark, larger diameter branches, or branches with significant differences in thickness, there are other techniques such as:

  • Single or double cleft graft: suitable for thicker branches.
  • Bark or crown graft: It is used when the pick is thin compared to the pattern.
  • Subcortical lateral graft: : mainly useful when the bark can be easily peeled off, such as at certain times of the year.
  • T-bud graft: It is usually done in summer or autumn, especially in citrus and rose bushes.

Compatibility is greatest between related species, but success will depend on tissue matching and post-graft care.

Frequently asked questions about English grafting

Can English grafting be performed on trees of any age?
It is ideal to apply it to young trees or branches of small to medium diameter (0,5 to 2 cm). For adult trees or thick branches, other techniques may be more effective.

How long does it take for an English graft to take root?
Generally, if the procedure is correct and the conditions are right, grafting is observed within a few weeks, as new shoots appear. The graft is fully established within a few months.

What to do if the pick or pattern have different diameters?
If there is a slight difference, align one side to maximize cambium contact. If the difference is greater, consider using another technique or selecting more compatible branches.

What are the signs of a failed graft?
Drying of the scion, lack of sprouting, or darkening of the grafted tissue indicate that the graft has not taken.

examples of grafting on cacti

View of a lemon tree with grafted orange tree
Related article:
Grafting Fruit Trees: The Ultimate Guide to Propagation, Improvement, and Care

There's no single way to master the art of English grafting, but there are a series of essential steps and key details that, if followed carefully, guarantee great results in almost any garden or orchard. This technique, in addition to being a useful method for multiplying select species and varieties, is essential for preserving genetic heritage and obtaining healthy, resilient, and productive specimens year after year.