El Anthurium, commonly known as anthurium, is one of the most appreciated tropical ornamental plants thanks to its spectacular inflorescences and its ability to adapt to indoor spaces. Its exotic beauty, combined with its ability to purify the air and withstand indoor conditions, make it an ideal choice for homes, offices, and places where a touch of nature and elegance is sought. However, for Anthurium to look its best and remain healthy for years, it is essential to understand its specific needs for light, watering, substrate, humidity, and protection from pests and diseases. This comprehensive guide delves into all aspects of its cultivation and maintenance, providing advanced information and unique advice drawn from both professional experience and a comparison of the best sources.
Origin, history and general characteristics of Anthurium
El genus Anthurium belongs to the family Araceae and comprises one of the largest collections of tropical plants, with a number that far exceeds a thousand catalogued species. These plants develop in an original way in the tropical and subtropical regions of Central and South America, from Mexico to northern Argentina and Brazil, with a high concentration in the jungles and rainforests of Colombia, Ecuador, and Panama. They are notable for their adaptive ecology: they coexist as plants epiphytes on tree trunks and branches, or as land in the humid undergrowth, taking advantage of the abundant environmental humidity.
The main characteristics of Anthurium include:
- Large, shiny, leathery leaves, generally heart-shaped or lanceolate, with shades ranging from deep green to silver in specific species.
- Inflorescences composed of a very showy spathe (which can be red, pink, white, orange, yellow, greenish or even black) and a cylindrical central spadix, where real tiny flowers are grouped.
- Both aerial and terrestrial roots, which allows them to capture water and nutrients from both the atmosphere and the substrate.
- Moderately slow growth but constant if conditions are favorable, reaching heights between 30 cm and more than 1 meter depending on the species and growing conditions.
- Optimal temperature between 18 and 28 ºC, with special sensitivity to cold and frost.
- Need for high environmental humidity (greater than 60%), typical of its habitat of origin.
- Ability to purify indoor air, improving the environmental quality of the space where it is located.
Thanks to its natural adaptations, Anthurium can be successfully grown indoors, as long as its original light and humidity conditions are reproduced as much as possible. Does not tolerate frost nor prolonged exposure to temperatures below 15°C; therefore, it can only be kept outdoors year-round in climates free from intense cold.
Anthurium flower duration and flowering cycle
El Anturium stands out for the longevity and beauty of its inflorescencesThe "flowers" we see are actually the colorful spathes that protect the spadix. These spathes can remain fresh and attractive for 6 to 8 weeks, or about two months, or even longer under optimal growing conditions.
La inflorescence production It occurs most intensely during the warm season, but, if properly cared for, Anthurium can maintain flowering, albeit at a slower pace, in other seasons.
- keep stable and warm temperature (never below 18 ºC), without sudden variations.
- Guarantee a high ambient humidity (above 60%, ideally between 70 and 80%).
- Avoid air currents and locations subject to sudden temperature changes.
- Provide adequate indirect light: Too little light reduces flowering and the spathes lose color; too much direct light can cause them to burn.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer and specific for flowering plants during the active season.
Once the spathe begins to show signs of wilting or losing its luster, it is recommended to cut it back to encourage the emergence of new inflorescences and promote the overall vitality of the plant.
Main species and varieties of Anthurium for indoors
The Anthurium genus encompasses extraordinary diversity, but some species and varieties stand out for their ornamental value and ease of indoor cultivation. Here are the most popular and appreciated:
Anthurium andreanum (Red Anthurium)
It is the best known and most widespread variety. It is characterized by producing deep red spathes, although hybrids exist in shades of pink, white, yellow, and orange. The leaves are large, with pronounced veins and a shiny texture. Under optimal growing conditions, it can reach up to 1 meter in height, making it particularly impressive.
- Albums: White flower variety, highly valued for its elegance.
- Giganteum: It is distinguished by its large inflorescences and tall stature.
- Guatemala: Its intense yellow bloom is less common in nurseries, which makes it exclusive.
- Black Knight: Almost completely black spathe, very exotic and sought after for unique collections.
Anthurium scherzerianum (Flamingo Flower)
It is smaller in size (up to 50 cm) and is distinguished by brightly colored spathes and a spirally twisted spadix, hence its nickname. It's especially hardy and can be successfully grown in domestic environments. Its most common colors are red, orange, and white. Ideal for spaces where a tropical presence is desired without taking up too much space.
Anthurium clarinervium
This species is recognized for its large, heart-shaped, dark green, almost velvety leaves and very marked white veinsIts value lies mainly in its foliage, which provides a very exotic and luxurious visual appeal.
Anthurium crystallinum
The leaves of this species are large size, velvety texture and silver veinsIt is highly prized by collectors and lovers of tropical plants, especially for its spectacular foliage and its care similar to that of clarinervium.
Anthurium: Essential and Advanced Care for Your Success
To ensure that your Anthurium thrives and maintains its characteristic brilliance and blooms, it's essential to replicate its natural habitat as closely as possible. Here's a detailed and comprehensive guide to all the key factors:
1. Light
- Intense indirect light: This is the most important factor in the flowering and health of an anthurium. Exposing it to direct sunlight burns the leaves and spathe; an ideal location is next to windows with translucent curtains or 2-3 meters from east- or west-facing windows. It should be placed even further away from a south-facing window (3-4 meters).
- Insufficient light: It causes lighter green leaves, poor growth, and no flowers or green, dull flowers.
2. Temperature and air currents
- Optimum temperature: Between 18 and 28°C. Anthurium is sensitive to cold; below 15°C it begins to show decline and can die around 12°C.
- Avoid sudden changes and currents: Move the plant away from poorly insulated windows, radiators, air conditioners, and doors with cold or hot drafts.
3. Ambient humidity
- Ideal level: Over 60%, with 70% to 80% recommended for optimal growth. Insufficient environmental hydration causes dry tips and poor flowering.
- Strategies to increase it:
- Spray the leaves with non-calcareous water at room temperature, especially in dry or heated seasons.
- Place the pot on trays with wet stones, avoiding direct contact of the bottom with water.
- Group several tropical plants or use room humidifiers.
4. Irrigation
- Frequency: In summer, two to three times a week. The rest of the year, wait until the top layer of the substrate is almost dry before watering again (ideally, check manually and never let the substrate dry out completely).
- Water quality: Preferably rainwater, distilled water, or mineral water with low salt and lime content to avoid leaf spots and nutrient blockage.
- Avoid puddles: Excess water is the main cause of root rot. Never leave the saucer with standing water at the bottom of the pot.
- Recommended method: Water the substrate, avoiding wetting leaves and flowers to reduce the risk of fungus, allowing the water to drain completely.
5. Substrate and type of pot
- Substratum: Use specific mixes for acid-loving plants (pH between 4 and 6), or prepare a homemade mix containing blond peat, pine bark, perlite, and coconut fiber. This ensures aeration, moisture retention, and good drainage.
- Suitable pot: Choose plastic containers with multiple drainage holes. If possible, add expanded clay balls or gravel to the bottom.
6. Fertilization and fertilization
- When to pay: During the warm months (spring and summer), apply liquid fertilizer for flowering plants or acid-loving plants every 30-45 days, diluted to half the recommended dose to avoid overfertilization.
- Guano and other fertilizers: Alternatively, guano or organic fertilizers rich in phosphorus and potassium can be used, as they stimulate flowering.
- Avoid excesses: Excess nutrients can cause root and leaf burn and reduce flowering. If the plant loses color or doesn't flower, review both the fertilizer dosage and the available light.
7. Transplantation
- Frequency: Every 2 to 4 years, or when the roots protrude from the base of the pot.
- Ideal time: At the beginning of spring, coinciding with the restart of the growth cycle, to reduce stress.
- How to transplant: Repot in a slightly larger pot (not excessively), replacing the substrate and ensuring good aeration. Check the roots and remove any rotten ones before replanting.
8. Pruning and cleaning
- Cutting old leaves and flowers: It should be done whenever they show yellowing or wilting, cutting as close as possible to the main stem with clean scissors.
- Cleaning leaves: Remove dust regularly by wiping with a damp cloth to improve light capture and promote photosynthesis.
9. Multiplication and propagation
- Division of bushes: This is the simplest and most effective way. Take advantage of the transplant to separate the suckers that emerge at the base and plant them individually in small pots with suitable soil.
- By seeds: It's labor-intensive and requires controlled temperature and humidity conditions, as well as lightweight substrates such as coconut fiber or vermiculite. Ideal for advanced collectors.
- Tip: Always use fresh, disinfected substrates. Apply preventative fungicides if propagation is carried out in humid and warm conditions.
10. Compatibility with other plants
- Beneficial microclimate: Grouping Anthurium with other tropical plants such as ferns, monsteras, or calatheas helps create a more humid and stable environment.
- Minimum separation: Ensure sufficient space between pots to avoid problems with excess moisture or competition for light.
Most common problems, diseases and pests in Anthurium
Even with the utmost care, your Anthurium may suffer from pest attacks or show symptoms of diseases specific to its type of crop. Identifying and addressing these problems early is crucial to avoiding the loss of the plant:
Main pests in Anthurium
- Red spider: It is detected when small webs appear on the underside of leaves, especially in dry environments. Treat with a broad-spectrum acaricide and increase humidity.
- Mealybugs: They appear as small white balls (cottony cushion scale) or brown scabs (limpet scale). It's recommended to remove them manually with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol. If the infestation is severe, apply mineral oil or a specific insecticide.
- White fly: Small midges that attack weakened plants. Use sticky colored traps and treatments with potassium soap or approved insecticides.
- Aphids: They hide sap-sucking insects in new shoots and flowers, weakening the plant. Remove with soap and water solutions or pyrethrin-based biological products.
Fungal diseases and injuries
- Anthracnose: A fungal disease that causes yellow and brown spots on leaves. Apply specific fungicides and improve ventilation, avoiding wetting the foliage when watering.
- Specks and black spots: They are usually caused by fungi due to excess moisture or poor drainage. Reduce watering, ventilate, and treat with systemic fungicides.
- Root rot: It occurs due to excess water or compacted substrate. Remove the plant, clean damaged roots, and replant in aerated soil, applying fungicide if necessary.
Other common signs and problems
- Yellow sheets: It's usually a symptom of overwatering or low temperatures. Reduce the frequency and warmth of the environment.
- Brown leaves: It is associated with a lack of humidity, sunburn, or insufficient watering. Adjust humidity, avoid sun exposure, and review your watering schedule.
- Dry leaves at the edges: Frequent in very dry environments or due to the use of calcareous water.
- Poor flowering: Lack of light, small pot or exhausted substrate.
- Slow growth: It may be due to poor nutrition or insufficient space.
Anthurium Toxicity
- Anthurium contains calcium oxalate crystals, making it toxic if ingested by pets or people. Ingestion can cause oral irritation, vomiting, and stomach upset.
- It is recommended to keep the plant out of the reach of children and pets.
- Handling leaves and flowers does not pose any significant risks, but it is always advisable to wash your hands after handling them.
Advanced tips and extra recommendations for a spectacular Anthurium
- Periodic cleaning of leaves to prevent the accumulation of dust and pests, while also improving the efficiency of photosynthesis.
- Use of quality waterIf you don't have access to rainwater or distilled water, let tap water sit for a day to allow the chlorine to evaporate before watering.
- Continuous state monitoring: Observe the color, texture, and firmness of leaves and flowers to take preventive action against any signs of stress, pests, or nutritional deficiency.
- Strategic location: Avoid surrounding the pot with other plants or walls that may hinder aeration and increase humidity excessively.
- Propagation by division every 2-3 years to rejuvenate bushes and renew the mother plant, also obtaining new specimens.
- Check roots at each transplant to remove damaged or rotten parts and promote vigorous growth.
- Look for signs of substrate saturation: If the water does not drain well, completely change the substrate.
- Avoid over-fertilizing, especially in autumn-winter, periods in which the plant enters a certain resting phase.
Where to buy Anthurium and choose the best specimen
To acquire a quality Anthurium, it is important to select specimens with firm leaves, without stains, tears or damage, and, if possible, check the root system to make sure it's not crowded, rotten, or blackened. The best places to buy are specialized nurseries, trusted florists, and highly rated online stores.
Potted plants should be well-formed, with compact but not saturated roots and several shoots at the base, indicating vitality. Avoid Anthuriums with dull leaves, wrinkled spathes, or visible pests. Always ask about the origin and growing conditions to ensure you don't buy weakened plants.
