How to care for cacti and succulents in fall and winter: a comprehensive guide with expert advice

With the arrival of cold weather, the growth rate of succulent plants and cacti slows significantly. Some species, especially the more delicate ones such as adenium o Pachypodium, they practically stop all activity and are limited to surviving by facing low temperatures and humidity. Due to this slowdown, Care in autumn and winter must be adapted and much stricter in relation to irrigation, light exposure, substrate and pest protection.

Avoiding common mistakes at this time is key to ensuring your plants arrive strong and healthy in spring.. Below, we present a complete, updated and extremely detailed guide on How to care for cacti and succulents during fall and winter, integrating best practices recommended by experts and comparing essential advice published by leading industry websites.

Understanding Your Cacti and Succulents: Origin and Cold Tolerance

Succulents and cacti come from arid, dry regions, often with notoriously extreme temperatures. Although some species such as Sempervivum o Sedum They withstand the cold and even certain frosts, Most commercial cacti and succulents are not very resistant to freezing temperatures., especially those adapted to tropical or desert areas that never experience frost. It's essential to know the specific variety of each plant you have to accurately tailor its management and protection.

Why do cacti and succulents die in autumn or winter? It usually happens because:

• Very low temperatures that freeze the water stored in their tissues, damaging the cellular structure and causing black or soft spots.
• Excessive watering during the dormant period. Damp substrate combined with cold conditions encourages the growth of fungi and root rot.
• Light deficit, since in winter the days are shorter, which can cause plants to stretch (etiolation) and lose their compact shape.

Knowing these critical points will make it much easier for you to tailor your care.

Responsible watering in autumn and winter: less is more

El Excess water is the main enemy of succulents and cacti in the cold season.. The reasons are several:

• Drastic reduction in growth, so they consume less water.
• Greater humidity and rain.
• Low temperatures that slow evaporation.
• Risk of frost, which can freeze water in the substrate and roots.

How to water safely?

1. Water only when the substrate is completely dry.You can check this by inserting a moisture meter or a toothpick into the bottom of the pot. If it comes out dry, it's time to water; if it's damp or warm, wait at least a few more days.
2. Avoid watering if frost is imminent.. Water in the substrate can freeze and further damage the roots.
3. Reduce frequency to half or less Regarding spring and summer, you can even space watering to every 3-4 weeks; outdoors, they can survive on ambient humidity and rainfall.
4. Use water with neutral pH and low salt contentTap water is fine if it doesn't have too much limescale, but The best option is settled rainwater.
5. Important: Never leave stagnant water in the saucers under the pots, as this causes root asphyxiation and rapid root rot.

Remember, it is better to sin by default than by excessWhen in doubt, don't water. Signs of overwatering include soft, translucent leaves that fall easily. If the plant is thirsty, the soil will be extremely dry, and the leaves may become limp or dull.

Substrate quality and drainage: key to survival

A good substrate is crucial to avoid problems with excess moisture.If the substrate is compact, clayey, or retains too much water, the roots suffocate, fungi proliferate, and rot is imminent.

• Recommended mix: 50% peat or universal substrate + 50% river sand, perlite, or volcanic rock. Special soil for cacti or succulents can also be found at specialized nurseries.
• Only use river or garden sandAvoid construction (marine) sand, as it contains salts that can burn roots.
• Pots with good drainageThey should have enough holes in the base to drain excess water. If you use plastic pots, make more holes and avoid using saucers underneath, except to collect the excess and remove it immediately.
• Terracotta or ceramic pots: They are ideal because they breathe and keep the roots cool.

Periodic renewal of the substrate (every 2-4 years in succulents, every 3-4 years in cacti) is another recommended practice to avoid the accumulation of Mineral salts and improve root aeration.

Optimal lighting: how to combat light shortages

La Light is essential for photosynthesis and the good health of succulents and cactiIn autumn and winter, days are shorter and sunlight intensity is lower. This can cause plants to lose their compact shape and develop elongated, weak stems (etiolation).

1. Place plants in the brightest places of the house or garden, preferably near a south- or west-facing window.
2. Indoors, keep pots away from direct heat sources. (radiators, heating) or cold air currents.
3. If natural light is insufficient, use LED grow lights. specific for plants, which provide the necessary spectrum without overheating.
4. Avoid direct exposure to intense sunlight in sensitive species, which can burn if the midday light is very strong even in winter.
5. Check the leaves periodically: if you notice that they are losing color, turning pale, or stretching toward the light, it is a sign that they need more light.

Protection against cold, frost and suitable microclimate

While some succulents and cacti can withstand temperatures down to 2-5°C and even light frost, The vast majority must take shelter as soon as temperatures drop below 7-10°CCold damage manifests as wrinkled leaves, black spots, soft tissue, or leaf and stem drop.

• If there is a risk of frost, move the plants indoors or to a greenhouse.If you have limited space, prioritize the most delicate species.
• Protect with frost-proof cloth covers, clear plastic, or bells when they can't be moved. Remove the covers in the morning to air them out and prevent harmful condensation.
• Be careful with home heating: Place them in cool, bright rooms, away from radiators and drafts.
• Do not transplant or handle unnecessarily during the winter., except in urgent cases.

Remember to ventilate the microgreenhouses during the day if the outside temperature rises, so the plants can "breathe" and prevent the growth of mold.

Transplants and emergency remedies in cold weather

El Regular transplanting should be done in spring, but sometimes a little is necessary emergency transplant in autumn or winter to save the plant:

• If there is overwatering and the substrate is soaked, carefully remove the plant, remove as much wet soil as possible, wrap the roots in absorbent paper and let it dry for 24 hours in a warm, dry place before replanting in dry substrate.
• If pests or rotten roots are present, clean with warm water, remove damaged parts, and let dry before planting in new substrate.
• Always transplant in a place protected from cold and wind.

Do not water for several days after transplanting to allow the roots to heal and prevent infection.

Fertilization and use of biostimulants

Do not fertilize during late autumn or winter.The reason is that plants are dormant, barely growing, and fertilizers can force unnatural growth, weakening the plant and depleting its energy reserves.

• Only a slight contribution of biostimulant is recommended. in late summer or early autumn, to strengthen them before the arrival of low temperatures.
• Always use the exact dose recommended on the label to avoid damage to the roots.
• If the plants are indoors and there is no forecast of intense cold, you can skip fertilizing altogether.

The vital role of dry leaves and natural protection

The Dry leaves at the base of succulents serve an important protective function during the cold months. Although they may be less aesthetically appealing, they act as windbreaks and minimize frost damage.

• It is not advisable to remove dry leaves until winter is over and temperatures are stable.
• If the plant is at risk for pests, check under the leaves but avoid removing them unless they are rotten or show clear signs of disease.

An example is Euphorbia grantii 'Rubra', whose outer leaves dry out in winter but They provide a shield to the internal branches and shoots.

Prevention and control of pests and diseases

During autumn and winter, the snails, slugs and ants can attack succulents, especially after rain and in humid environments. Added to this is the risk of fungi due to excess water in the substrate.

• Check the plants periodically and use repellents or traps for snails and slugs.
• Avoid the accumulation of fallen leaves or wet plant debris around the area, as they encourage pests.
• If fungal symptoms appear (gray or white spots, soft tissue), apply copper-based fungicides following the manufacturer's directions.
• Control watering, especially if several rainy days in a row are expected.

Prevention is always easier than treatment: take care of ventilation, monitor the leaves, and react quickly to any abnormality.

Differences in care according to gender or species

Each genus of succulent and cactus has different sensitivities:

• Sempervivum, Crassulas, Aeonium: They tend to remain active in autumn and tolerate some cold.
• Euphorbiaceae, Aloe: They tend to go into complete dormancy, requiring even less watering and greater protection.
• Cactus from desert areas: They are extremely sensitive to humidity and intense cold. They require complete rest and almost no watering.
• Tropical or warm-origin plants: They require constant temperatures and should never be exposed to frost.

The key is in correctly identify your plants and adapt irrigation, light and protection according to its origin and requirements.

Common mistakes and additional expert recommendations

Gathering advice from nursery growers and reference websites:

• Avoid unnecessary transplants in winter. Only do it if it's urgent.
• Pay close attention to drainage and never reuse wet substrate.
• Do not over-fertilize or over-feed while the plant is dormant.
• Keep succulents away from radiators, heaters, or cold drafts.
• If the plant is outdoors and there is heavy rain and pots without a hole, move them under cover to avoid root suffocation.

Success lies in the Frequent observation of the substrate, leaves and environment.

Frequently Asked Questions and Key Answers

• Can succulents be outdoors in winter? Only if they are hardy species and there is no frost. If intense cold is forecast, it's best to grow them indoors.
• How do you know if they need more or less water? The plant is telling you: Soft or translucent leaves indicate overwatering. Flabby leaves or dusty soil indicate underwatering.
• What water to use? Ideally, rainwater or water low in minerals. Do not use brine water.
• Do dried leaves really protect? Yes, leave them unless they're rotten. They're a natural shield.
• How do you know if it's time to transplant? Only if the substrate is very compact, smells bad, there are rotten roots or roots are coming out through the holes in the pot.

Taking good care of your cacti and succulents in the fall and winter is not complicated, but it does require attention, observation and adapting each care to the species and environmental conditionsAlways use common sense: less is more, especially when watering; protect from the cold; prioritize good drainage; and maintain constant vigilance to respond to any signs of trouble. This way, your plants will reward you with vigorous growth and spectacular blooms in spring.