Garlic is one of the most appreciated and practical crops in the home garden, not only because of its culinary versatility, but also for its healthy properties and ease of cultivation Whether in large plots of land or in small urban pots, mastering how to plant garlic will allow you to enjoy a harvest that's free of chemicals and offers maximum flavor and nutritional value.
Why grow garlic at home? Benefits and characteristics
Garlic (Allium sativum) is a plant with an annual cycle that belongs to the Amaryllidaceae family. Among its notable benefits Its antibiotic, disinfectant and purifying properties are found, helping to cleanse the blood, stimulate the immune system, reduce blood pressure and improve cardiovascular health.
In the kitchen, garlic is a essential condimentIn addition to its unique flavor, it is easy to store after harvesting and, when properly dried, can last for several months.
Garlic also offers advantages in the garden, as its smell helps to repel pests and protect other crops. In addition, it is an undemanding vegetable that adapts very well to both large plots of land and small spaces such as pots or planters.
Planting Seasons: When to Plant Garlic?
Planting timing is key to garlic growth and development. There are two main planting windows:
- En temperate climates, the most common thing is to plant garlic in autumn (October to November). Thus, the cloves take advantage of the winter cold to activate the vernalization process, which promotes the formation and division of bulbs.
- In areas with very cold winters or late planting, garlic can also be planted between January and March, always avoiding intense frosts just after sowing.
This duality allows it to adapt to different regions and climates. According to agricultural tradition, waning moon It is ideal for planting garlic, as it promotes the underground development of the bulb, although it is not essential to follow the lunar calendar if the soil and climate conditions are correct.
Soil preparation and site selection
For garlic to thrive, it is essential to properly prepare the soil and choose the right location:
- Light, aerated and well-drained soil: Avoid compacted, heavy soils, which retain too much water and can cause rot. If your soil is very clayey or compacted, add sand or organic matter (well-aged compost, worm castings) to improve the structure.
- Rich in key nutrients: Garlic primarily requires phosphorus and potassium. A light addition of vegetable ash or mature compost can be beneficial. Avoid using excessive nitrogen fertilizers, as they promote leaf growth but not bulb growth.
- Sun exposure: Choose a spot that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. Garlic tolerates some shade but will always grow best in full sun.
- Avoid wet or waterlogged soils: Excessive humidity is garlic's main enemy. A soil that retains little moisture is preferable to one that remains wet after watering or rain.
- Crop rotation: Do not plant garlic in soil planted with onions, leeks, broad beans, beets, or spinach the previous year to avoid disease buildup.
Garlic Varieties: Which One to Choose?
There are several varieties of garlic that can be grown, each adapted to certain climatic conditions and tastes:
- White garlic: This is the most popular variety, with large cloves and a milder flavor. It is noted for its good shelf life after harvest.
- Purple garlic: More intense flavor, slightly smaller cloves, and greater resistance to moisture.
- Elephant garlic or Chilote: Very voluminous, with bulbs that can be three times the size of common garlic, native to humid regions like Chiloé, Chile. Its flavor is milder and is excellent raw or in salads.
- Hardneck: It prefers cold winters and produces a central flower stem. Ideal for cold areas.
- Softneck: It does not produce floral scapes and is more suitable for temperate and warm climates, with good adaptation and longevity after harvest.
When choosing cloves for planting, select large, fresh heads with no signs of disease. The outer, most robust cloves develop best, while the smaller ones can be reserved for consumption.
How to plant garlic step by step
- Selection of teeth: Separate the garlic head into individual cloves just before planting. It's important not to remove the skin covering each clove.
- Preventive disinfection (optional): To prevent fungus, soak the cloves in a solution of water and baking powder (one tablespoon per liter) for a few hours before planting.
- Sowing in soil or pot:
- Plant each clove with the tip up and base down.
- Recommended depth: 2 to 5 cm depending on the size of the tooth. In cold climates, a greater depth is preferable.
- Spacing between teeth: 10 to 15 cmIf you grow spring garlic, you can plant more closely together.
- Distance between rows: between 20 and 30 cm if you have multiple lines.
- Coverage: Cover with loose soil, uncompactedAdd a light layer of mulch or straw to retain moisture and prevent weeds. In very cold areas, increase mulching after the first frost.
- First watering: Water gently to settle the soil around the cloves. Avoid overwatering.
- Location of the container: If you plant in a pot, choose one that is at least 10 cm deep and place it in a well-lit area.
In about two weeks, the first stems will begin to sprout.
Essential care during cultivation
Garlic is a plant of minimal care, but there are several aspects to take into account to obtain top quality bulbs:
- Irrigation: Garlic prefers dry conditions. Water only if the soil is dry, more frequently in the early stages and very sparingly once the bulb begins to develop. Be especially vigilant in humid regions: if it rains frequently, skip watering. Important: Stop watering 2 to 3 weeks before harvest so that the bulbs heal properly and rot is prevented.
- Undergrowth: Keep the space free of weeds, as they compete for nutrients.
- Fertilization: Add mature compost or vegetable ash if the soil is poor. Do not use nitrogen-rich fertilizers.
- Flower stems: In certain varieties (especially hardnecks), remove the flower stalk in spring. This allows the plant to concentrate its energy on the bulb. The flower stalks are edible and can be used in cooking.
- Leaf knotting: Once the leaves have reached a good height and begin to yellow, make a soft knot at the base of the stem to stimulate the development of the bulb (only if the variety allows it).
Main pests, diseases and associations
Garlic is an excellent natural pest repellent. and rarely suffers major problems, but can be attacked by:
- Onion fly: An insect whose larvae can attack bulbs. It is prevented by rotating crops and avoiding waterlogged soils.
- Garlic ringworm: Leaf-boring insect. Controlled by removing plant debris and promoting biodiversity.
- Rust: A fungus that forms orange spots on leaves. It's especially problematic in rainy springs. It can be combated with mulching, adequate ventilation, and, if necessary, homemade fungicides such as nettle slurry, horsetail infusion, or diluted milk.
- Mold: Favored by excessive humidity. Avoid overwatering and aerate the crop.
Garlic is not prone to pests, but if they do appear, the use of natural insecticides is sufficient. Also, planting it near tomatoes, onions, carrots or radishes helps protect these plants and improve the balance of the garden.
You should avoid associating garlic with legumes (beans, peas, broad beans) or cabbages, and not planting it after beet or alfalfa crops.
Sowing in pots and small spaces
Garlic is ideal for urban and container gardens. To plant in containers, follow these tips:
- Pots: At least 10-12 cm deep, with drainage hole.
- Substratum: Light, with a mixture of coconut fiber, humus and perlite or loose topsoil.
- Irrigation: Moderate, only when the substrate is dry 2 cm from the surface.
- Location: Place the pot in a place with plenty of natural light.
You can plant several cloves per pot, maintaining the recommended distance.
How to plant elephant garlic or Chilote garlic
Elephant garlic stands out for its size and mild flavor. Its cultivation is similar to that of common garlic, but with some considerations:
- Sowing time: Best in fall, although it can work in spring except in extremely cold climates.
- Spacing: Being larger bulbs, leave at least 15 cm between teeth.
- Irrigation: More necessary in sandy soils, but always avoiding waterlogging.
- Harvest: 7-9 months after planting, when leaves are mostly yellow.
Elephant garlic, besides being decorative, is very profitable and useful for stews, roasts, and sauces.
Garlic Harvest: When and How to Harvest?
The optimal time for harvesting is when the lower leaves have completely dried out And at least half of the top bulbs are already yellow. Don't wait for them all to dry, as the bulbs could split open, reducing their shelf life.
- Carefully remove: Use a small shovel or hoe, inserting it some distance from the stem and gently prying it off to avoid damaging the bulb.
- Drying: Once removed, shake off the soil and let the bulbs dry in the sun for 2-3 days, avoiding exposure to rain. If the weather is humid, dry them indoors in a well-ventilated area.
- Cured: After the initial drying process, move the garlic to a cool, dry place. Hang it in braids or place it on mesh netting to complete the curing process for 2-4 weeks. This will harden the skin and help preserve it better.
- Storage: Cured garlic can be stored for several months in cool, dry, dark, and well-ventilated places. Don't store it in sealed plastic bags, but rather in wooden boxes, mesh nets, or hanging in strings.
One trick to know if garlic is ready is to check that the cloves are formed and the skin is tight. If you harvest them too early, they'll be small; if you harvest them too late, the skins can come off, making storage difficult.
Additional tips and tricks for successful garlic growing
- Buy seeds from reliable sources: It's best not to plant store-bought garlic, as it may be chemically treated. Opt for certified seed garlic or garlic from local farmers.
- Mulching: Mulching with straw or plant debris is essential to retain moisture, prevent soil compaction, and reduce fungal attack.
- Bloom Removal: If your plantation produces flower scapes (thick, hollow stems), cut them as soon as they appear to obtain larger bulbs.
- Maturation tests: If you're unsure about the harvest stage, dig up a couple of garlic cloves and check the formation of the cloves and the firmness of the skin.
- Ventilation and rotation: Well-aerated crops and plot rotation help prevent recurrent diseases.
- correct storage: Don't wash bulbs before storing them; remove dirty outer layers when they're dry, and trim roots and stems if you're not braiding them.
Growing garlic, whether in a garden or in a pot, is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to get started in gardening. Its hardiness, low maintenance, and culinary and medicinal value make it a must-have for both the novice and experienced gardener. By following these tips, you'll enjoy fresh, flavorful garlic year after year, along with a healthier and more balanced garden.
