Planting trees in seedbeds is a way efficient and controlled to start new plants, ideal for orchards and gardens. It allows protect germination from sudden temperature changes, pests, and irregular watering, in addition to facilitating the management of each seedling in its own socket. It is also an activity didactic and very motivating For children and beginners: preparing the substrate, sowing, observing the birth and transplanting teaches the complete plant cycle.
But… how is sowing in seedbeds done?
Below you will find the process Step by Step, with practical tips and critical points for achieving uniform germination. You'll see which seedbed to choose, what substrate to use, how to maintain proper humidity and heat, and when to transplant without damaging the roots.
1. Sow seasonal seeds
Respect the planting season of each species. Check the seed packet, mini guides or a planting calendar and, above all, adapt it to your local climateIn trees, many temperate species require cold stratification (a controlled cold period) to break dormancy. Sow at a depth of approximately 1 to 2 times the size of the seed; the very fine ones are spread on the surface and gently pressed to facilitate contact with the substrate. You can also consult the lunar sowing calendar for best results.
Tip: Read the manufacturer's instructions: they provide the optimal temperature, light requirements, irrigation and the recommended planting frame for future transplanting.
2. Types of seedbeds
There are trays with alveoli with drainage holes, peat pots and compressed peat pellets (Jiffy). These options minimize the exposure of the roots during transplantation and reduce plant stress. The trays are reusable and allow you to produce many plants in a small space, preventing them from competing with each other. You can also use small seedling containers improvised whenever they have holes in the base.
Another option is a mini greenhouse for several trays. Still, remember ventilate regularly to balance humidity and oxygen, which are key to the seed being able to breathe and not rot.
3. Seedling substrate
The substrate must be light, thin and porous so that the root penetrates without difficulty, with good moisture retention but without flooding. You can use a specific one for seedbeds or make a mixture with one part peat, one part river sand or fine perlite and two parts of universal substrate. Moisten the substrate before sowing and level it so that it is flush of the alveoli.
Avoid heavy, compact soils: they hinder emergence and favor fungi. If you've had problems with damping-off, you can improve ventilation and reduce excess humidity to prevent it.
4. Increase the humidity level
Stable humidity accelerates and homogenizes germination. Cover the seedbed with perforated transparent film to retain steam and allow air exchange. Air for a few minutes daily helps prevent excessive condensation and mildew. If the substrate dries out, spray water with a fine spray without flooding.
Another option is a mini greenhouse for several trays. Still, remember ventilate regularly to balance humidity and oxygen, which are key to the seed being able to breathe and not rot.
5. Provides heat
Most species germinate best between 20 and 30 ° C. You can place the seedbed on a thermal blanket or near a gentle heat source to stabilize the temperature. After the emergency, lower the heat slightly and ensure a lot of light to ensure compact growth. Avoid overheating the substrate, as this accelerates evaporation and can dry it out.
6. Air and light for healthy growth
When the first seedlings appear, remove the film and place the seedbed in a well-ventilated area. bright, without intense direct sunlight in the early stages. The lack of light causes thinning (tall, weak plants), with stems more prone to disease. Rotate the tray every few days so they receive light evenly. uniform.
- The seedbed: Use germination trays with lids or cells; check the drainage holesIf you improvise containers, pierce the bottom and keep a bottom tray to collect the water.
- The substrate: fill and level. It should be damp (not soaked) at planting time. A fine texture is key to successful emergence. uniform.
- Sowing: Place one seed per alveolus if it is large; two or three if they are small, separating them. Cover at most double height of the seed. Gently press with a splint or stick to secure contact with the mixture.
- Germination: keep humidity and heat stable. Cover with a lid or perforated film and ventilate every one or two days. When germinating, remove the cover and place in bright, unobstructed light. sunstrokes.
- Selection: If several are born per alveolus, it retains the most vigorous seedling and remove the rest by cutting them flush with scissors to avoid damaging the roots.
- The ringing: When they have 2-3 true leaves, transplant to a larger container. Always handle by the leaves (not by the stem), using a stick to help you lift the seedling. Make a hole, place the root, press the substrate around the cuello and water gently.
- Hardening and transplanting: Before taking them outside, acclimatize them for several days by increasing the ventilation and light. After a few weeks, when the root ball is formed, move it to its final location with the minimal stress possible.
Practical tips and common mistakes
- Label each tray with species and date to control the process.
- Water better by capillarity or with a sprayer; avoid direct jets that dislodge seeds.
- Ventilate regularly to prevent mushrooms and bad odors in the substrate.
- Avoid cold substrates or drafts: the seed needs a stable microclimate.
Sowing in seedbeds gives you complete control over the germination and early growth allows you to obtain many plants with little investment and reduces field failures. With a good substrate, controlled humidity, adequate temperature, and abundant light, seedlings develop strong and compact, ready to thrive when your transplant arrives.