Summer offers stable temperatures and many hours of light, ideal conditions for successfully starting seedlings in both urban gardens and gardens. A good indicative sowing calendar It helps you organize, but the essential thing is to know which species thrive in heat and how to prepare and care for the seedbed so that the seedlings arrive strong to the transplant. If you are going to be away for a few days, leave automated irrigation and check the water level that your plants need.
Ideal plants for sowing in seedbeds in summer
Many vegetables love heat and grow best from seed. Among the most gratifying are tomato (minimum 6 hours of direct sunlight and tutored), the pepper (better in deep pots and rich substrate), the eggplant (needs to lots of direct light and warm atmosphere), and the zucchini (fast and productive, with deep irrigation and regular). For small spaces, the cherry tomatoes They work very well in planters.
If you are looking for fast leaves, sow argula and makes passes every two weeks to have staggered harvest. The lettuce thanks sun with some semi-shadow during peak hours and with generous watering; spinach It grows quickly in moderate heat, although it is advisable to avoid spiky with regular watering and light shade during peak temperatures.
The green beans They grow best in warm, well-drained climates, while the zucchini and pumpkin prefer temperatures around 20–25 ºC and soft and fertile soil. Among the roots, the carrot It is best sown in the final soil (in a trickle and covering with River sand), since it does not tolerate transplantation well.
In addition, summer is the ideal time to start the vegetables for the autumn-winter garden in the seedbed: cabbages, red cabbages and cauliflowers (great need for light), as well as chard, borage, escarole and winter lettuce. You can also start beets, turnips and leeks, planning the transplant when it cools down.
How to prepare the seedbed in summer
Use suitable containers: peat pots or pressed tablets (Jiffy type) minimize transplant stress by preventing the roots are exposed. The alveolar trays reusable are a practical and durable alternative.
The substrate must be light and well drained. Mixtures with coconut fiber o perlite They provide aeration and moisture retention without flooding. Look for a fine texture with peat, some washed sand and initial nutrients for the start.
Sowing in the cooler hours (morning or evening) to prevent the substrate from overheating. Keep a constant humidity without soaking and place the seedbed in a bright place, protected from direct sunlight during the central hours to avoid dehydrating the seedlings.
For species demanding heat (pepper, eggplant, tomato) a protected seedbed the first few days. In heat waves, use shade mesh light for a few hours. If summer comes to the end of the cycle and the minimums drop, bells, tunnels o thermal blanket help maintain a few extra degrees.
Key care: watering, nutrition and health
Water in deep and space it out; it's better to moisturize thoroughly every few days than to wet it superficially every day. Do this first thing in the morning or last thing in the morning to reduce evaporationAvoid wetting the leaves zucchini y tomato To prevent fungus: water at the foot.
Fertilize organically with mature compost or balanced fertilizers, especially for demanding species such as tomatoes, peppers, and zucchini. Remove dry leaves and weeds to improve ventilation and reduce disease outbreaks.
Watch out for typical heat pests: aphids y Red spider. Check the underside of the leaves and act quickly with low-impact solutions (potassium soap, plant extracts) and good cultural hygiene. In spinach and arugula, try some semi-shadow to avoid premature earing.
When the seedlings show 3–4 true leaves, perform the thinning leaving the most vigorous seedling per socket. In tomatoes, install tutors early to guide growth without damaging roots later.
From the seedbed to the ground or to the final pot
Transplant to sunset or on a cloudy day, with the root ball well hydrated. Keep frequent watering the first week until it takes root. If you use peat pots or compressed pellets, transplant with everything to prevent root damage.
Prepare the ground with organic material: incorporates mature manure at a rate of 3–5 kg/m² and bury it immediately to reduce the nitrogen loss. Design the garden thinking about the crop rotation and in the irrigation system: with drip or exudation hose you can leave the surface flat; with conventional hose it is convenient to trace grooves.
To reduce weeds, make a false planting: water, wait for the weeds to germinate, weed them out, and then sow. For root or bulb crops (carrot, beet, turnip), it is best direct seeding in the field; the leek is an exception that tolerates transplanting.
In areas with cool nights, protect tender transplants with tunnels o thermal blanketIn very hot climates, it provides some temporary shading during the first few days to avoid water stress.
Indicative calendar and additional recommendations
Start in summer seedbeds of nightshade (tomato, pepper, eggplant) if you are looking for a harvest at the end of the season; in temperate zones, they also serve to start the cycle of brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower) for autumn. Cut leaves (lettuce, arugula, chard) work with staggered sowing every 10–15 days to maintain continuous production.
Remember: eggplant and pepper love direct sun, the zucchini needs space and drainage, lettuce prefers regular watering with some shade during peak hours, and green beans require warm temperatures and no waterlogging. With good planning and simple care, your summer nursery will produce vigorous seedlings ready for a bountiful harvest.
Plan the species wisely, prepare an aerated and fertile seedbed, regulate irrigation and protect from excessive sun; thus, you will make the most of the summer to start crops that will yield for weeks and leave the garden ready for the next season.
