With the arrival of the month of September we say goodbye to summer and welcome autumn. Temperatures begin to drop and the nights are cooler. After a demanding summer in which many plants suffer from the intense sun, the heat, the scarcity of water and the loss of water through evapotranspiration, a more temperate period begins in which the rains return in many regions. This transition is not the same everywhere: in coastal areas, it can be accompanied by episodes of heavy rainfall, while in inland areas, the change is usually more gradual.
In autumn there are many flowering plants both in the garden and in the orchard or on the balcony. It is an excellent time to planning, planting and reorganizing Green spaces: planting new shrubs, introducing cool-weather vegetables, preparing seedbeds, and renewing substrates. September also brings with it a collection of proverbs full of popular wisdom, poetically summarizing the changes in the countryside, light, and weather.
Plants that bloom in the month of September
We must bear in mind that, as the month progresses, the number of species in full bloom tends to decrease. Even so, the garden does not lose interest: the spotlight shifts to the berries and small shrub fruits and the chromatic change of the deciduous leaves, which provide reds, oranges, and yellows. Grass tends to green up after the heat, creating a very pleasant contrast with the autumn fruits. Among those that continue to add a touch of color are some long-flowering climbers and perennials.
In September, shrubs such as the oleanders in mild climates, and climbers such as solano (Solanum jasminoides). This group includes several species that can maintain their flowers well into autumn if they have good drainage, hours of light and moderate watering.
Mandevilla
Perennial climber that in temperate climates can create a second flowering in September. A location with a good location is suitable for you. abundant light and frost-free, with a rich, well-draining substrate and regular, non-flooding watering. Light pruning after the first flush of flowers stimulates new shoots. In a pot, it provides a tropical touch to porches and pergolas.
semperflorens begonias
Compact herbaceous plants that thrive even in difficult corners, such as cracks between rocks or shaded borders. They remain in bloom from spring to early fall. They prefer light semi-shade, frequent but moderate watering, and a substrate with organic materialRemoving spent flowers encourages continued flowering.
Blue sage
Of great chromatic intensity, the blue-flowered salvia is highly valued in perennial beds. Although loses the aerial part in winter In colder areas, it sprouts vigorously the following season. It thrives on sun, loose soil, and spaced watering. Pruning in late summer can extend flowering for a few more weeks.
Lantana camara
A shrub with leaves that are often semi-persistent in warm climates and with staggered flowering, reaching great splendor in late summer and early fall. Very drought-resistant once established, it appreciates full sun and pruning to promote new bunches. Its multi-colored inflorescences are pollinator attractants.
Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)
In milder areas, it continues to produce large, showy flowers throughout September. Demand a lot of light and regular watering, avoiding waterlogging. A balanced end-of-season fertilization helps maintain vigor and prepare the plant for dormancy.
Dalia
A classic late summer and fall crop. Dahlia tubers appreciate moist soils. deep and drained, consistent watering, and support for flower stems. Removing faded flowers prolongs flowering until temperatures drop.
Hemerocallis (daylilies)
Highly adaptable perennials that can offer late bloomsThey tolerate sunlight well and require fertile soil. Maintaining them is simple: divide the clumps every few years and remove dead flower stems.
Pansy (Viola x wittrockiana)
If planted now, pansies will offer color from the end of summer until spring. They require substrate fertile and well-drained and good light. They're ideal for planters and borders due to their varied range of colors.
Cyclamen
A great ally of autumn for its elegant flowers and ornamental leaves. It needs a warm atmosphere. fresh and airy, always keep the soil slightly moist and protect it from severe frost. Avoiding water in the center of the tuber reduces the risk of rot.
Chrysanthemum
Emblem of autumn blooms. With abundant light and regular watering, you get dense massifs and long-lasting. Pinching in early summer produces more compact and flowery plants by September.
Asters and heather (Calluna/Vaccinium in ornamental)
The aster offers flowers type margarita In soft tones, heather provides spikes of great seasonal value. Both combine well in containers and low-maintenance gardens, as long as they have correct drainage and moderate watering.
Passionflower (Passiflora spp.)
Decorative vine that can prolong its flowering if the climate remains temperate. It requires support, sun, and moderate watering; it's best to watch out for early cold in frost-prone areas.
Phalaenopsis Orchid (indoor)
In bright interiors, many phalaenopsis prolong their flowering stems at this time. They require indirect light, spaced watering, and keeping the substrate in a good condition. wet bark, not waterlogged. Mild temperatures favor the production of new rods.
Kalanchoe and flowering succulents
Some varieties of kalanchoe and succulents can begin or prolong their flowering in autumn. They require filtered sunlight and substrates. minerals and punctual irrigation. Its great advantage is the low maintenance demand.
Orchard panorama in September
During September, the garden changes pace. If tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, or zucchini were planted late, they may still produce, but the thermal drop and rain can reduce its quality. It is advisable to evaluate each plot: if the crop is exhausted, it is better to remove it and Preparing the terrain for the autumn rotation.
It's time to plant cool weather vegetables such as spinach, radishes, lettuce, chard and cabbageIn mild climates, sowing is also advanced. broad beans and peasIf you already have artichokes, you can divide and replant them now to ensure winter and spring harvests.
Working the soil with mature compost improves its structure and nutrient reserves. You can incorporate green manures (vetch, mustard, clover) to protect the surface and provide organic matter. Keep walkways mulched with mulching to reduce erosion caused by rainfall and the regrowth of unwanted weeds.
Drainage becomes important where rainfall is intense: raising the terraces, creating evacuation channels and checking drip irrigation helps prevent waterlogging. Monitor for late-season pests (whitefly, aphids) and fungal diseases favored by moisture, using integrated management and proper ventilation in greenhouses.
Some fruit trees, such as Orange tree In certain areas, they are going through a critical development phase. Maintain deep, even watering, and monitor their nutritional status to avoid deficiencies before ripening.
Change in irrigation patterns
The grass usually shows the aftermath of summer: bald spots, burned areas, and surface felt. As temperatures drop, reduce watering frequency and avoid leaving it alone. wet at night to reduce fungal pressure. It's a good time to scarify and break down the felt, improving aeration and water absorption capacity.
After scarifying, apply deep irrigation and reseed if necessary. A fertilizer of slow release will help thicken the carpet. If areas of moss appear due to excess moisture or compaction, correct the cause (shade, poor drainage) and use anti-moss products as support.
In the rest of the garden, gradually reduce the frequency of watering, favoring contributions deep and spaced. Set the timers so that water is applied at dawn; incorporate rain or humidity sensors Avoid unnecessary watering. Mulching flowerbeds maintains moisture and stabilizes soil temperature.
Pots appreciate drainage checks: clean holes, use aerated substrates and discard dishes with standing water. For young climbers and shrubs, maintain regular watering while they strengthen their roots with the change of season.
Indoor plants in September
For many indoor plants, this month is a rebootIf a plant needs repotting due to caked roots, it's a good time to repot; if it doesn't need repotting, it's best to wait until spring. renew the surface substrate and aerate it with perforations to improve its retention and drainage capacity.
Fertilize every two weeks with a low-dose balanced fertilizer and adjust watering: less frequently than in summer, but without letting it dry out excessively. Remove dry leaves and trim damaged tips to encourage new growth. Cleaning leaves with wet cloth or a gentle warm shower improves photosynthesis in ficus, monsteras and philodendrons.
If you have Orchids Phalaenopsis: Keep in bright indirect light and water evenly; spathiphyllum (peace flower) appreciates humidity and light shade. Avoid cold drafts and sudden changes in location to minimize stress from the seasonal transition.
Plants that we can plant in our garden
It's time to remove the spring-summer seasonal plants (petunias, dahlias, begonias, geraniums if they are very tired) and start with the autumn and winterAmong the bushes, the laurel, the holly and the pyracantha They are planted now so that they take root well before spring. Between September and the following month, the bushes that they bloom before they bud, such as Forsythia intermedia or hydrangeas, always with clean cuts and respecting flower buds.
Start the seedlings of early flowering perennials and biennials such as marigold, pansy, wallflower or alisum. Add the calendar of autumn bulbs that will bloom in spring: tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses, anemones, and alliums, which are planted now in well-draining soil. In planters, combine pansies with heathers and small grasses for long-lasting arrangements.
If you want to maintain sustained color, include chrysanthemums, asters, and cyclamens in prominent spots. In cold climates, keep mobile protections listed for occasionally frosty nights and move delicate pots to sheltered locations.
How to propagate plants by division
Division is a simple method for multiply Perennials and many bedding plants. This involves dividing a clump into several sections with their own roots and shoots. Here's a quick guide to doing it successfully:
- Extract the plant from its pot or from the ground gently, ideally with the substrate slightly moist so that the root ball maintains its cohesion.
- Remove the soil from the root area with your fingers or a toothpick, working quickly and in the shade to prevent the roots from dehydrating.
- Check roots and cut away any dry or rotten parts with a clean tool. Take this opportunity to remove damaged or diseased tissue.
- Separate the stems and the root system in two balanced parts (or more if the plant is very vigorous), ensuring that each division retains active buds and roots.
- Plant each division In its container or final location with suitable substrate, water to establish and protect from direct sunlight for a few days. Observe its development and adjust watering to facilitate rooting.
Works especially well with agapanthus, hostas, hemerocallis, perennial salvias and many aromatic plants. Avoid dividing during extreme heat or frost.
You already know which plants look their best during this time of year and which crops to introduce into your garden. irrigation, aerate soils, incorporate mulch And planning autumn seedbeds makes all the difference, while the sayings guide garden tasks. With a wise selection of perennials and bulbs, a sowing calendar well adapted to the local climate, and timely maintenance tasks, September can be the starting point for an autumn full of color, life and harvests healthy