In this guide you will find how to do the planting garlic in pots Step by step, without the need for commercial seeds and with tricks to achieve healthy bulbs or tender garlic shoots in a small space. In addition, you will see recommended materials, distances and depths, key care, favorable associations, how and when to harvest, and the curing process to preserve them for a long time.
Necessary materials
- Flower pot: at least 15 cm deep for garlic shoots; for well-formed heads, 20–25 cm is better and about 3 liters of volume per toothElongated planters allow for better use of space.
- Healthy garlic bulbs: Choose firm, stain-free pieces. Ideally, organic or seed originSome supermarket garlic may come treated and germinate less well.
- Substratum: light, well drained and with organic matter (universal mix + perlite, or soil with compost and some sand).
- Watering can or sprayer for gentle watering.
When to plant garlic in a pot
The most reliable time is the autumn, when there are 4 to 6 weeks left until the intense cold weather begins. This margin allows the tooth take root before winterIn temperate climates, it can also be sown at the beginning of winter; in very cold areas, move the sowing date forward to autumn. Avoid frozen ground when planting.
Garlic has a slow cycle: to form heads it needs Several monthsIf your space is limited or you are impatient, you can choose to collect garlic in 2–3 months.
How to plant garlic in pots: step by step
- Select the teeth: remove the shell from the head and reserve the bigger, healthier teeth for planting. It's not necessary to peel them completely; their thin skin protects against fungus.
- Prepare the pot: Fill with loose, draining substrate. Add a some mature compost if the substrate is poor.
- Placement and orientation: buries each tooth with the base facing down and point up. Indicative depth: between 2 and 5 cm (a rule of thumb is to twice its size); in a pot, 2–3 cm usually works very well.
- Distances: for heads, leave 10–15 cm between teeth. In small planters you can reduce to 6–8 cm if the substrate is very fertile. For garlic shoots, plant more densely, 5–6 cm or even 2–3 fingers apart.
- First watering and sprouting: performs a generous initial watering until deeply moistened and keep the soil slightly damp the first 1–2 weeks to facilitate the outbreak.
Essential crop care
Garlic is undemanding, but appreciates some simple care. Keep the container at full sun for good bulb development.
- Irrigation: after rooting, it is a plant of low water consumptionWater when the first third of the substrate feels dry; if it's not raining, it can be every 3 days, but adjust according to the climate and pot size. Avoid waterlogging.
- Weeds: Remove them early so they don't compete for light and nutrients.
- Subscriber: with a good substrate it is enough light compost at the beginning. It does not require frequent contributions.
- Associations: avoid legumes and cabbages close. Good neighbors: carrot, tomato and onion. Be careful if you mix with species that require more water.
- Flower stem: if it appears, cut it so that the plant concentrates energy on the bulb.
Garlic shoots vs. garlic bulbs
From the same clove you can obtain garlic shoots or heads. garlic, increase density and harvest when the stem is tender, at 2–3 months. For headsMaintain larger spacings and be patient with the long cycle. If you're planting in a small space, alternate between both uses in the same planter.
Development, thickening and harvesting
During growth you will see firm, green leaves. When part of the foliage turns yellow and bends, the final thickening begins. Many people knot the leaves or bend the stems to redirect nutrients to the bulb; do this when the plant begins to dry naturally.
- Signs of harvest: at least one third of the foliage is yellowing. Make a tasting test lifting a bulb to check size and firm layers.
- How to extract: Use a shovel or small hoe to loosen the area and carefully remove the bulb, without pulling only on the stem.
Drying, curing and preservation
After harvesting, shake off the unwashed soil. Air dry in a shaded, ventilated area, avoiding intense sunlight. Then, healed in a warm, dry place for 2–4 weeks until the outer layers harden. Cut off roots and excess stem, or braid garlic. Store in a cool place dark, cool and well ventilatedA short pre-drying in soft sun (1–2 days) is possible if there is no extreme heat.
Quick FAQ
- Planting depth? 2–5 cm; as a guide, twice the size of the tooth.
- Which teeth to choose? Large, firm and undamaged; best of organic or seed origin.
- Ideal irrigation? Constant humidity at the beginning and very moderate after. Avoid excess water to prevent rot.
- Minimal pot? For heads, 20–25 cm deep and good drainage. For garlic shoots, more compact containers are suitable.
