The Orchids They are flowers of extraordinary beauty and sophistication, often associated with elegance and distinction in interior decoration. These plants stand out not only for their spectacular and long-lasting flowers, but also for the uniqueness of their roots and their adaptability to different environments. However, for orchids to remain healthy and continue to bloom year after year, it is essential to pay special attention to one of the most important aspects of care: the transplant at the right time and in the right way.
If you have wondered When and how to transplant orchidsThis article is the definitive, up-to-date guide to help you keep your orchids vigorous, adapting the best practices endorsed by experts and horticulturists. Discover the best times to repot, clear signs that indicate when it's necessary, the precise technique to avoid damaging your plant, and everything you need to know to ensure your orchid grows and blooms successfully after each repotting.
When is the best time to transplant orchids?
The ideal time to repot orchids varies depending on the species, the type of substrate, and the environmental conditions of the location. However, there are some general guidelines that every amateur and expert should know.
- The optimal time is usually just after flowering. or during the beginning of the period of active growth, which normally takes place in late winter or early springDuring this period, the orchid is ready to develop new roots and leaves, which facilitates its recovery after transplanting.
- In areas with a temperate climate or without risk of frost, transplanting can also be done in autumn, always avoiding the peak flowering period, as changing the pot at this time can cause flowers and buds to fall prematurely.
- The epiphytic orchids (such as Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium) usually benefit from repotting every two years, or earlier if the substrate degrades or the roots become overgrown.
- For orchids planted in sphagnum moss, it is advisable to repot every year to prevent root rot, as moss decomposes faster than other substrates.
It is advisable to avoid transplantation when the orchid is in full bloom, as stress can weaken it and cause flower loss. Plan to transplant right after this cycle ends and before new stems emerge.
How often should you transplant orchids?
The frequency of transplanting depends on the type of substrate and the condition of the plant:
- Every 2 years if the plant is in bark and the substrate is kept aerated.
- Once a year if it is in sphagnum moss or in mixtures that decompose quickly.
- If you notice a excessive root growth outside the pot or compacted substrate, brings forward the transplant.
Clear signs that your orchid needs to be repotted
In addition to the periodicity, there are unequivocal signs which indicate when an orchid should be transplanted so as not to harm its health and development:
- Roots that protrude and overflow through the surface of the substrate or through the drainage holes of the pot. Indicates that there is insufficient space and the plant needs more area to develop.
- Crowded, deteriorated, dry, or rotten roots, dark brown or soft. This may be due to an overly old substrate, overwatering, or lack of aeration.
- Compressed and degraded substrateWhen the substrate loses its spongy structure and becomes compacted, preventing the passage of air and water to the roots.
- Loss of vigor, yellow or wrinkled leavesAlthough this may be due to other causes, if it coincides with any of the above points, it is time to transplant.
- Root replacement and sanitationIf you find many dead roots during your plant inspection, it's best to prune them and change the substrate, even if the pot doesn't increase in size.
Most frequent visual indicators
- Excessive aerial roots, especially in Phalaenopsis orchids. More than two or three overgrown aerial roots is a sign that the plant needs more space or renewed substrate.
- The substrate has changed color or looks mossy, soft, or smelly.
- The orchid has stopped growing or flowering at a good pace, without any apparent external causes.
How to transplant orchids step by step?
Transplanting success depends largely on prior preparation and proper technique for the type of orchid (epiphytic or terrestrial). Before you begin, gather all the necessary materials to work comfortably, quickly, and safely:
Necessary material
- New pot: Preferably transparent for epiphytic species (such as Phalaenopsis), since the roots carry out photosynthesis. The pot should be slightly larger than the previous pot, but never excessively large. The pot should have drainage holes.
- Special substrate for orchids: Generally a mixture of Pine bark, sphagnum moss, perlite, charcoal, coco coir, or coconut chips. Avoid using regular potting soil, as it retains too much moisture.
- Expanded clay balls or similar: To create a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot.
- Watering can: Preferably with rainwater, filtered or acidified with a few drops of lemon juice.
- Scissors or a sharp and disinfected knife: Essential for pruning damaged roots, avoiding infections and diseases.
- Gloves and disinfectant products such as alcohol or hydrogen peroxide to clean the tools.
Pre-transplant preparation
- Water the orchid one or two days before transplant, or soak the pot in warm water for 30 minutes an hour before starting. This softens the substrate and roots, making them easier to remove without damaging them.
- Sterilize the tools to prevent the transmission of pathogens.
- Prepare the work area so that it is clean and safe.
- Soak the new substrate mix for several hours (or overnight) beforehand, especially if using sphagnum moss.
Step by step to transplant an orchid (Phalaenopsis and other epiphytes)
- Carefully remove the plant from the potIf it's too stuck, gently squeeze the pot or use a flat knife to loosen it. Don't yank the stem sharply.
- Clean and examine the rootsRemove the old substrate by massaging the tangle of roots. Use scissors to remove any rotten, dry, soft, or blackened roots. Firm, green or silvery roots should be preserved.
- Disinfect the cutsIf necessary, sprinkle the cut ends with charcoal powder or cinnamon to prevent infection.
- Place a layer of clay balls or gravel at the bottom of the new pot to improve drainage.
- Partially cover with new substrate and place the orchid in the center, carefully arranging the roots.
- Fill in the gaps with more substrate, gently pressing with your fingers or shaking the pot to eliminate air pockets. The roots should be surrounded but not overly compacted.
- Place the plant so that the growing point is level with the edge of the pot.. Do not bury the stem excessively.
- Water lightly to settle the substrate, or wait 3 to 7 days if you have had to prune roots so that the wounds heal before wetting again.
How to transplant terrestrial orchids
- Prepare a layer of drainage balls at the base of the new pot.
- Add some specialized soil for terrestrial orchids. These require mixes with more organic matter, such as peat, coconut fiber, and fine bark.
- Extract the plant, clean it and remove damaged roots.
- Place the orchid in the center and fill gently, ensuring the rhizome is at the proper depth.
- Top up with more substrate and water when finished.
Tips for transplanting orchids from trunks to pots
- Let the roots dry for 3-4 days so that they can easily detach from the trunk.
- Separate the roots from the original support with a toothpick, avoiding breaking them.
- Clean and repot as in the previous steps, using new orchid substrate.
Choosing the best substrate for orchids
El substrate is key in the long-term success of the repotted orchid. Orchid roots need oxygen and a humid but well-aerated environment. Therefore:
- Pine bark: It is the most used base, it allows good aeration and retains adequate humidity.
- Sphagnum mossUsed alone or in a blend, it's ideal for adding moisture retention and aeration. It's essential to change it annually.
- perlite and vermiculite: They improve aeration, absorb water and nourish the roots.
- Charcoal and coconut chips: They prevent bad odors, fungi and provide structure.
- Avoid garden soil, clay, or regular plant mixes; they retain too much moisture and can suffocate the roots.
Adapt the mix according to the type of orchid, humidity conditions, and climate where you will be keeping the plant. To expand your knowledge, we recommend reviewing What is the best substrate for orchids?.
Orchid transplant care
The transplant process can cause some stress to the orchid, so proper aftercare is essential to ensure the plant recovers and grows back strong and healthy:
- Do not water immediately after transplanting with root pruningWait 3 to 7 days, allowing the cuts to heal. If the roots are intact, you can water lightly after transplanting.
- Avoid fertilizing during the first 3-4 weeksThe roots need to adapt to their new substrate first. Over-fertilization can cause burns or additional stress.
- Place the orchid in a place with abundant but indirect light.Avoid direct sunlight and maintain a warm temperature, free from drafts.
- Spray the leaves with water to maintain ambient humidity, especially if the plant goes a few days without watering.
- Check the substrate moisture daily. Make sure it doesn't dry out completely or stay soaked.
- Watch for signs of post-transplant stress, such as wilted leaves or flower drop, and adjust care if necessary.
- Repotting using the "cache pot" method (a plastic pot inside a decorative pot) promotes aeration and drainage, and allows the orchid to be removed for easy watering.
When to fertilize after repotting an orchid?
After three or four weeks of transplanting, when the orchid has already developed new roots, you can start applying specific fertilizer for orchids, always diluted and in small doses, approximately once a month or every two weeks during periods of strong growth.
Key characteristics and adaptations of orchids
Orchids constitute one of the largest and most diverse botanical families, with nearly 30.000 known species and thousands of hybrids. This extraordinary variety is the result of an evolutionary process that has given each species unique mechanisms to thrive in diverse habitats, from tropical rainforests to temperate zones.
- Three sepals and two petals, plus the labellum: This distinctive floral structure attracts pollinators and facilitates the reproductive process.
- Epiphytic roots In most home-grown species (such as Phalaenopsis), these roots are capable of absorbing water and nutrients from the air and the environment. These roots can perform photosynthesis.
- Orchids present resupination, or the 180-degree turn of the flower stem before opening, completely exposing the labellum to pollinators.
- Capsules filled with tiny seeds for efficient dispersion.
- Nectar production, ensuring the visit of pollinating insects and their ability to thrive in adverse conditions.
These adaptations have allowed orchids to conquer almost every continent and to renew themselves generation after generation, provided they receive proper care.
General care for transplanted orchids
- Light and temperature: They require plenty of light, avoiding direct sunlight. Ideally, they should have an east- or north-facing window, protected by curtains if the sun is intense. The ideal temperature ranges from 20-26°C during the day to 16-18°C at night.
- Humidity: Maintain sufficient humidity, especially during the transplant's adaptation. A humidifier or a tray of water and pebbles can help in dry environments.
- Ventilation: It's essential for preventing fungal diseases. Avoid stagnant air and direct cold drafts.
- Irrigation: Only water again when the substrate begins to dry out on the surface. Orchids prefer water stress to excess water, which can cause rot.
- Fertilization: Once the plant has adapted after transplanting, use special orchid fertilizer in low doses and on a monthly basis.
- Do not move the plant from its location constantly. during the first months after transplanting, since stability helps rooting and adaptation.
Common mistakes and problems when transplanting orchids
Avoid the following mistakes to ensure success:
- Using pots that are too large, which makes drying difficult and can cause rot.
- Compact the excess substrate around the roots, as they need aeration.
- Using unsuitable substrates, like normal potting soil.
- Pruning healthy roots unnecessarily.
- Overwatering during the first few days after transplanting and fertilizing too early.
- Expose the plant to direct sunlight immediately, causing burns or stress.
If you notice soft roots, yellowing leaves, or rapid flower drop, check the substrate, watering frequency, and location of the orchid. You can also consult Why do orchid flowers fall off?.
Propagation and transplantation of keikis or orchid offspring
In some species, especially Phalaenopsis, the plant may develop small shoots or keiki At the end of a stem. When the shoot develops several roots and the parent stem dries out, it's the right time to separate and repot the keiki into a new pot, following the same repotting recommendations as for adult orchids.
- Loosen the substrate before transplanting and handle with extreme care.
- Spray the plant and keep the humidity high, avoiding direct watering during the first few days.
- Place the keiki in a warm and bright environment, without sudden changes.
Hey.
I think that in the future some more questions will come, but the first one that comes to mind has to do with irrigation water.
I notice on your page that you recommend watering with rainwater or with water acidulated with lemon and my specific question is none other than whether this water can be replaced with the one supplied by a spring water distribution company: specifically, this drinking water that The aforementioned company supplies me comes from a spring located on the same mountain as the Lanjarón spring in Granada, and it is truly excellent water for human consumption. I wonder if said liquid element from Granada is just as good for my flowers. I have dipladenias, orchids, Sevillian roses, hibiscus, miltonias, gazanias and lantanas at home.
I thank you in advance for your response.
Greetings.
Hi Jacinto.
Yes, that water is very good for those plants. You can use it without problems 🙂.
A greeting.
Hello, I have some orchids that are attached to the trunk of a tree (medlar) and I am moving and I want to take them to my new house, since these were my mother's. How should I get them out of this trunk and transplant them into a pot, or another trunk? Thank you so much. I have only this week to do it.
regards
Hi Brenda.
You can separate its roots from the trunk little by little and carefully, and then plant them in clear plastic pots with pine bark.
A greeting.
Hello, I have a phalaenopsis orchid for 2 years. The first one flowered without problems but the second year instead of blooming a new plant has grown on each flower stem. Now I see it weak and although 3 new roots have sprung up, the rest are deteriorating. I know that summer is not a good time to transplant, but could you try it to heal the roots and try to save it? What do you recommend?
regards
Hello Ana.
Rather than transplanting them, I would recommend watering it with homemade rooting hormones (here explains how to obtain them): This will help it to emit new roots, which will give it strength.
A greeting.
I have wild orchid that is on a trunk with moss and the leaves are turning yellow and the moss is dying. What can I do…?
Hi Rosy.
How often do you water it? Moss is a plant that needs water on a daily basis, otherwise it begins to dry out quickly.
With regard to the orchid, I would recommend transferring it to a pot, with pine bark, as it does not like to have the roots always wet.
A greeting.
Hello. I am hesitating whether to transplant my orchid, since it is growing a new leaf. I fear that the change will stop the growth of the leaf, or be detrimental to the whole of it. I await your advice that I will follow to the letter.
Grateful
regards
Hello Happiness (nice name, by the way 🙂).
No, I do not recommend transplanting it now. Wait for it to finish developing the sheet and then you can do it.
A greeting.
Hello, when transplanting my orchid I have to cut off the dry roots, it is because I am afraid that my orchid will die, it has new roots but growing towards that «help me«
Hello May.
Yes, you can cut the dried roots with scissors previously disinfected with pharmacy alcohol.
A greeting.
Thanks for your help I am new to orchid growing.
Thanks to you, Elizabeth
Hi! Doesn't the time to transplant the orchid matter? I appreciate the answer!
Hi Ligia.
No it does not matter. Just try not to get direct sunlight. 🙂
A greeting.
Hello. I have a dendrobium nobile with a keiki, but the rod that it had the whim to be born on is old and small and is turning yellow. A few days ago I had 2 keiki and one has died. Still not big. It has 2 small roots and 2 leaves (there were 3 and it has lost one of them). What I can do? I think its roots are not very healthy ...
Hello Monica.
From what you tell me, it seems that this keiki is also going to suffer the same fate as the first one. It is possible that the rod from which it has sprung, being old, does not have the ability to feed it as it should.
You can try to help her by fertilizing the orchid with a specific fertilizer for these plants, to see how it goes.
A greeting.
Hi! I have had a phalaenopsis for two years now and I know that I should transplant it because the roots are already coming out and it is in a very small pot. The time to transplant is late winter, but the flowering rod is coming out. Will I be able to transplant it anyway?
Hello Andrea.
No, if it is blooming, it is better to wait for it to finish. 🙂
A greeting.
Hello, I am new to having an orchid, they have given it to me, a few days ago, it has many flowers and others to open, my question is, not the change of pot, until next year, does it have to be in a transparent pot? on occasion I have seen them in glass. But since it drains if they are in glass, the root can rot. ' How many times a month are they watered and with bottled water is it okay? Or does it have to be with a special water? Thanks.
Hello Maria.
Yes, you can change it to a pot with holes next year, when it is not blooming. If it is in glass, the roots rot.
Regarding watering: you have to water when the roots look white, with bottled water for example, but never with water that has a lot of lime.
A greeting.
Boa noite as minhas orchids have a lot of bugs maybe piolho gostava of knowing or that it devour fazer obrigado
Hi Adelino.
You can remove them with a cloth dipped in pharmacy alcohol 🙂
A greeting.
I have an orchid which has already fallen all the flowers, it only has two sticks left, when it had the flowers it had a flower bud on each stick but apparently they dried up and did not occur, it has 5 very green leaves, my question is . After how long they bloom again, or in my case the rods are already dry, do you recommend putting some fertilizer on them? thank you I await your comments regards!
,
Hi Gyn.
Orchids usually bloom once a year.
If you have green leaves, it's just a matter of waiting 🙂
In any case, you can fertilize it with a specific fertilizer for orchids following the instructions specified on the package. You will find it for sale in nurseries.
A greeting.
Hello Monica,
we have a Phalaenopsis orchid and many doubts about it:
- Trunk leaves: should they be cut at some point (example: when changing substrate)?
- Upper part branches: from the vertical stems others have previously been born in the upper part in a transversal way. Now that there are no flowers, can these branches be trimmed to remove weight from the plant and make the flowers sprout where they did at the beginning? The rods that guide the main stems must support more and more weight.
- Substrate: you indicate a substrate change every 2 years, we did it last year but without adding clay, would you recommend us to do it again this year?
Thank you very much beforehand for your help.
Warm regards,
Maria and Esteban
Hello Esteban.
I say to you:
-Do not cut any leaf, except if it is sick (soft, rotten, or completely dry).
-I do not advise pruning it. You would take away strength by having less green leaves 🙂
-From what you are telling me, surely you have a beautiful plant, so it is not necessary to modify the substrate.
If new questions arise, I am here.
A greeting.
If my orchid gets a yellow leaf, what is it?
Hello Rosa Maria.
If they are the lower leaves, the oldest, it is normal for them to turn yellow.
But if they are the newest, it is because there is a problem with the irrigation.
How often do you water it? Here there is an orchid care guide in case it can help you.
Regards!
Hello, I live in Buenos Aires in a farm where there is frost about 10 years ago, I divided two bulbs from a large pot (50 cm in diameter by 50 cm in height) with orchids that I transplanted into a pot of the same size (which is not I transplanted never again and gives two rods per year at this time (they last a month). I made another division with the new plants that it gave and put together new pots of 20 by 20 cm, they gave leaves and never bloomed. My questions are 1) How can I renew the substrate of the large pot? 2) 'What can I do with those that are in a small pot and have not yet flowered 3)' Should I continue dividing the bulbs? Thank you very much for the information provided above and in the comments, they are very clear .- A hug, virtual for the distance and the pandemic .-
Hello Gustavo.
Do I answer you:
1.- If the orchid is comfortable in that pot, I do not recommend renewing the substrate. What you can do is fertilize it with a specific fertilizer for orchids following the instructions on the container. In this way, you will not lack nutrients.
2.- Patience 🙂. Plants, even if they are sisters or daughters of the same parents, are a little different from each other: some grow faster than others, or flower later ... Again, orchid compost can help.
3.- That will depend on the size of the orchid. If you see that it has grown a lot, and it gives you the impression that it has occupied the entire pot it is in, then it is advisable to separate the bulbs.
If you have more questions, contact us.
A hug 🙂
The orchid that I want to separate from the mother plant is attached to the stem and has 3 aerial roots. How should I do it? It is better to separate it or leave it as is.Thank you