El wild thyme belongs to the genus Thymus, a group with hundreds of aromatic species within the Lamiaceae. It comes from temperate zones of Europe, Asia and North Africa and, since ancient times, has been valued for its aroma, culinary uses and traditional propertiesGreeks and Egyptians already used it for ritual and hygiene purposes, a legacy that today translates into a plant rustic, decorative and very easy to grow both in pots and in the ground.
In addition to its ornamental value, thyme provides biodiversity to the garden By attracting pollinators, it resists drought well and, with little care, offers a abundant flowering and evergreen leaves with an unmistakable perfume.
- Botanical characteristics and habitat
- Care guide: light, watering, soil, pruning and pot
- Planting and multiplication
- Flowering, harvesting and traditional uses
- Common problems: why it dries out and what to do
Characteristics of wild thyme
It is a perennial subshrub and very branched, low and sometimes creeping. Its leaves are small, linear or oval, grayish green in color and rich in essential oil glands. The flowers appear at the top of the stems and vary in size white to pink or violet, concentrating in spring and spreading according to the climate.
Habitat: Thrives in dry, stony, and sunny soils, typical of scrubland and slopes with direct sunlight. Its rusticity makes it ideal for rockeries, borders and flowerpots.
Basic taxonomy: Kingdom Plantae; Order Lamiales; Family Lamiaceae; Genus Thymus; species frequently cultivated such as Thymus vulgaris and T. zygis.
How to care for wild thyme: a practical guide
Light: needed lots of direct sunlight (at least 6 hours a day). The more light it receives, the more compact and aromatic grows. Indoors, it only performs well next to very bright windows with direct sunlight. For more information on optimal light and temperature conditions, see our guide plant care in wild gardens.
Temperature: withstands Cold and heat, although it prefers temperate and dry climates. In areas with severe frost, it is advisable to protect it from the wind or place it in a dry place. sunny and sheltered.
Soil and pH: choose a substrate light, stony and very draining. It accepts pH from slightly acidic to neutral or somewhat alkaline (approx. 6,5–7,5), but the essential thing is avoid waterloggingIn a pot, mix universal soil with washed sand and perlite.
Irrigation: is drought resistant, but in a pot it requires supervision. Water only when the substrate is dry to the touch; in intense heat, every 3–5 days, and in cold, every 10–15 days. The roots suffer from excess moisture.
Fertilizer: not very demanding. A light contribution of compost or humus in spring is enough. Avoid mineral fertilizers rich in nitrogen because they soften the fabrics and reduce frost resistance.
Pruning: cut back slightly after flowering To maintain shape and stimulate new growth. Renew aging stems with firmer pruning in late winter, avoiding very old wood.
Ideal pot: minimum 20 cm of depth, with drainage holes and a layer of gravel at the base. The terracotta helps the substrate dry better, which is key to avoiding rot.
Planting and multiplication
Sowing: you can sow at late winter in a seedbed for transplanting in spring, or late summer to have plants ready in the fall. Cover the seeds with a very thin layer of substrate and keep it gently moist until germination.
Transplant: Place the seedling in a loose, well-draining substrate. Transplant when the root ball is well formed, taking care not to overgrow. over-compact mix.
Cuttings: taking semi-ripe cuttings in early summer; they root well in sandy soil with controlled humidity and bright light without intense direct sunlight.
Division and layering: the division of bushes It works in spring, and layering in spring or autumn. Separate rooted sections and replant at 40 cm if it goes into the ground, leaving space for ventilation.
Flowering, harvesting and uses
Flowering: appears from mid spring and can be longer depending on the weather. It attracts bees and butterflies, improving pollination in the garden. From the second cycle onwards, the plant usually flowers. with greater intensity.
Harvest: short twigs in the morning to take advantage of the essential oils. You can collect leaves year-round; the flowering ends are easily dried and preserved. its fragrance.
Culinary uses: combines with meats, stews, legumes, soups, pickles and to flavor oils or vinegars. It is highly valued in Mediterranean cuisine for its intense flavorYou can also check out ideas in traditional recipes or in our guide to aromatic plants.
Traditional uses: Thymol and other compounds have been associated with effects antimicrobials, expectorants and carminatives. In infusion it is traditionally used for respiratory and digestive tracts; on the skin, as antiseptic and healing, and in homemade cosmetics to balance the excess fat. In hair it is used to add shine and stimulate the capillary circulationFor more information on medicinal uses, visit our content at thyme properties.
Preparation guide: 1,5–3 g of dried leaves per cup in infusion. It is also used in decoctions, vapors, extracts, syrups and oleatesConsult a healthcare professional before use if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or under treatment.
Common Problems: Why Thyme Dries Out
Excess water: the most common cause. A compacted substrate or pots without drainage cause root rot. Solution: Improve drainage, water only when dry and use gravel at the base.
Lack of light: in shade growth is long and weak, with little aroma and no flowers. Plant it in a full sun and clears away dry leaves.
Small pot: If the roots saturate the volume, the plant will be exhausted. Transplant to a container. deeper and aired when you notice stagnation.
Pests and fungi: it is usually resistant, but in very humid environments it can appear aphid or cochineal. Treat with potassium soap or neem oil and improve ventilation.
Lifespan: After several years, the plant becomes woody and less fragrant. It is advisable to renew by means of cuttings or division every 4–5 years to maintain vigor and aroma.
